In northern Pakistan, there are mosques. Of course, there is; Pakistan is an Islamic country, so what would one expect? But you perhaps didn’t know that most of the mosques in the Himalayan region of Pakistan were once home to Buddhist monasteries. Buddhism relics originating within this area from over 600 Years ago still exist, only now they home the Mosques of Pakistan! I’d like to bring your attention to one Buddhist monastery, built-in 1370 AD. The iconic building still stands as proud as ever nestled amongst the Himalayas but has since been converted into a mosque and was one of the core reasons for me dragging Natalie to this remote area of North Pakistan.

Allow me to introduce you to Chaqchan Mosque.

One element I would like to highlight is that there are several mosques in the area which used to house Buddhist Monastery, and what speaks to me is the Prophet Muhammads (Peace be upon him), who reiterated time and time again that all people are equal. This is the defining element of Islam. The Prophet (Peace be upon him) also spoke very openly about respecting other people’s beliefs and not forcing anyone to join Islam, for that would go against the fundamental principles of Islam. These monasteries, I feel at least, can attest to that.

The fact that the monasteries and Buddhist relics still stand to this day despite Buddhism having left the area some 600 years ago, for me, counts as a testament to the Prophet (Peace be upon him). We have witnessed through history that territories change hands multiple times, and in most parts, the victor always lays siege to the predecessor’s relics, not here they don’t, not in Pakistan. The only other time I can think of when this has not been the case is when Genghis Khan invaded Uzbekistan and was fascinated by the beauty of the stunning Po -i-Kalyan Mosque in Bukhara Uzbekistan, the building that he called too beautiful to destroy. Still, his army did lay siege to the rest of the city, so that’s in no way an appropriate comparison.

Breezing past that history lesson we can explore further if we’re ever fortunate enough to travel to Uzbekistan, I was thrilled to witness Chaqchan mosque in all its beauty. The iconic 700-year-old building still stands, stupa and all but houses Islam whilst respecting its Buddhist origins. It is a beautiful mosque.

The unheard mosques of Pakistan

Chaqchan Mosque

As we approached the mosque, I let out a yay; an observer imitated my reaction. I had never seen a mosque in such a location. I doubt many people have, and we were both so excited to witness this glorious monument in its natural beauty. The mosques of Pakistan in Khaplu are extraordinary, and Chaqchan Mosque is no exception.

After we walked up the winding steps to make our way towards the Mosques gates, we approached the makeshift shoe rack. So for those who are unaware, footwear is forbidden in mosques. It’s a sign of respect as you enter Allah’s houses, so go in with clean feet; that is also why you should do Vaddu before. As we took our shoes off, I remember my mother saying, be careful of your shoes. This was due to the family visiting Mecca, Saudi Arabia, some twenty years ago, where most of my family’s shoes were not where they were left. I still believe to this day that it was an honest mistake, but you have to go with percentages.

We wandered into the mosque and were astounded by the beauty. The simple Buddhism design elements still stand, and the mosque itself is so strikingly powerful, especially when you step out and view it from the outside. The mountain range glistens in the backdrop as the sun continues illuminating the entire valley. 

Chaqchan mosque is one of the most beautiful places we have ever seen.

Just let the imagery and peaceful surroundings sink in. Chaqchan mosque was a highlight in Pakistan and worth the cramped four-hour drive from Skardu that we had to undertake to get there. Sure, the Badshahi mosque in Lahore and the Faisal Mosque in Islamabad first come to mind when we think about the mosques of Pakistan. However, when visiting Pakistan, try to see the mosques in the north of Pakistan, too; you’ll be in awe of their simple aesthetics whilst grasping at the breathtaking views of the valleys surrounding them. Something Lahore and Islamabad don’t have, not like this anyway.

The unheard mosques of Pakistan

The Khanqah-e-Mualla Noorbakshia Mosque

No trip exploring the mosques of Pakistan would be complete without visiting the Khanqah-e-Mualla Noorbakshia Khaplu Bala Mosque, which was built using these gorgeous massive walnut trees. You’ve never even heard of this mosque, let alone seen images. In truth, this mosque was extravagant compared to Chaqchan Mosque, whose design was underpinned by the Buddhist influences that crafted it. I like to think that along with Buddhism Architecture. There was also an Islamic element engrained which was, to keep it simple, this is a place of worship, after all. After seeing elaborate mosques worldwide, it was beautiful to see something so simplistic in its design; while some grand mosques are beautiful, they shouldn’t be about that. Think of all the poverty in the world, and governments spend millions on a building, especially when that isn’t a prerequisite to pray; it becomes about ego over faith at some point. These are just my thoughts. If only the world were ideal, hey?

The interesting element about this particular mosque was not the stripped 25-foot tall walnut trees used as pillars to hold the mosque up but the tiny rooms where worshippers would spend 40 days and nights locked away, fasting and praying. This is an unbelievable way to test people’s strength, determination and resolve. Whether you believe this approach to be right or wrong, you have to give props to worshippers who have the discipline. 

I’ll repeat it: Pakistan’s mosques are more varied than I initially thought. We’ve all seen images of Badshahi and Faisal Mosque whilst googling the mosques of Pakistan, and they are worth a visit! However, venturing into Khaplu and seeing these mosques is something else. Both mosques were genuinely inspiring, and if you have the chance, please put Khaplu on your list. Khaplu is growing in popularity, but that’s predominantly due to the Serena Khaplu Fort. Instead, have it be for the world’s most beautiful mosque, Chaqchan Mosque.

Toodles

USEFUL TIPS FOR BACKPACKING PAKISTAN:

How to Visit Chaqchan Mosque, Khaplu, Skardu, Pakistan

This sounds like it would be a complicated journey, but in truth, it’s pretty simple. As is the norm in this area of Pakistan, you will first need to head to Skardu, Pakistan. Skardu will be the central point for a lot of your excursions. Skardu certainly was for us, as you can tell from the numerous videos we have filmed there. We documented our flight from Islamabad to Skardu which will show you how to make that journey.

Once in Skardu, ask your hotel for the bus to Khaplu, and they will tell you where to go. We cannot pinpoint a location for you because there isn’t a bus station for departures going to Khaplu. You won’t find any schedules online, nor will you find an actual bus station. The buses depart for Khaplu on the edge of town, and your hotel will direct you there.

Tickets to Khaplu from Skardu will cost 300PKR per person for the minibus with a food break after an hour or so, and if you’re lucky, your bus won’t break down as ours did. Trust us, take the bus and enjoy the most amazing Pakistani food on route to Khaplu. You’ll have a chance to visit the colourful teeny tiny village of Gol, which serves up some of the best food in Pakistan!

Once in Khaplu, your accommodation will be able to sort you with a driver for the day. To go around Khaplu, 1,000 PKR is more than a fair price, where you’ll get to explore Chaqchan Mosque and the Serena Khaplu Fort. The drive back to Skardu should be around 6,000PKR, with stops at Machlu Valley, Sogha Lake, Saling and Manthoka waterfall. I wouldn’t recommend you miss any of them, it takes a lot to get into this area, and those four areas are well worth visiting. Just aim for clear days. 

Enjoy! and don’t forget to tag Calamity Travels on Instagram. We’d love to see if you enjoyed backpacking Pakistan as much as we did!