Our Deosai Plains mini-travel series will be split into three sections on our YouTube channel.

Part One – The journey into Deosai Plains

Part Two – Camping at Deosai Plains

Part Three – Venturing deep into Deosai Plains and visiting Sheosar Lake

We have also recently introduced mini-videos on our channel with quick 30-second videos showcasing the scenery to give viewers a feel of the locations we have visited in Pakistan. Part one. Part two. Part three.

Let’s begin.

Deosai Plains was integral in deciding when it was best to visit Pakistan. You see, the best time to travel here is between June – Early September, with July being the most optimum time. The reason is due to the altitude (Deosai plains is at 4,114 metres above sea level), and snow typically lands on Deosai Plains around mid to late August. Due to the turbulent weather, the Deosai plains are closed between October to May for safety reasons. This means that if you want to visit and see yet another fantastic night of star gazing in Pakistan (just like in the Katpana Desert, which you can read about here or watch here), avoid that time and aim for the Summer months.

Apart from excellent star gazing, Deosai Plains is also home to significant wildlife. Brown bears are in the area and are often seen in the mornings, just before the sun illuminates the sky. Deosai Plains are also home to rare flowers, and you will see Marmuts scurrying along, which surprised us as we had no idea what they were. Our Deosai Plains Part One will highlight our lack of knowledge. However, now that we’ve been fortunate enough to experience it, Deosai Plains is integral to our top locations to see whilst travelling in Pakistan. If you’re looking for inspiration, then check out that article here.

So, where are the Deosai Plains located, and how can you visit them? As Pakistan is relatively new to tourism, there is no public bus. Actuaaaaaly, there is one, but as a foreigner, you may not be permitted as it is just a ride through the Deosai Plains without any stopping off and sightseeing, dropping you straight off to a location on the other end. Cost-efficient for sure, but seeing as it takes hours to even reach the gates of Deosai Plains from either Gilgit (The foot of the KKH), Astore (Home to Rama meadows and Rama lake) or Skardu (the start point of so many exciting locations to visit which can be seen here or read about here) it’s best to soak in the scenery and then continue your journey onwards dependant upon which direction you care from and ultimately, where you want to end up.

Also, the entrance fee for foreigners is 20 USD at the time of filming, so don’t pay to cross it, pay to explore Deosai Plains, and maybe you’ll even spot an elusive brown bear!

We crossed into Deosai plains from Skardu as we were heading into Astore before continuing our ascent northwards into the majestic Fairy Meadows (near the base camp for Nanja Prabat Mountain) and through Hunza until we reached the Chinese border.

An epic trip, yes, but for sure not without its calamities.

Deosai Plains can also tie up your Skardu travel itinerary, as illustrated here, or you can visit Deosai Plains before embracing Skardu, which is entirely your choice. We ended with Deosai Plains as it suited our route better, and we wanted to see the fantastic Satpara Lake again.

It was now late August, and snow had landed on Deosai Plains the week before our arrival. According to the local weather experts, a storm was coming into Pakistan and would be present for four to five days, so we thought we best get a move on. After all, we were heading to Deosai Plains, and star gazing was atop our list as we received photos from friends we made from the Islamabad to Skardu flight, so it was integral we arrived before the storm. We couldn’t wait five days, as we had a flight booked out of Gilgit in two weeks and were eager to explore the whole of northern Pakistan. Our friends visited Deosai Plains a couple of days ago and recommended we camp so we could enjoy the stars; we messaged the owner of Glamp PK, who (very nicely) gave us a fifteen per cent discount. It seemed like everything was falling in place, despite the storm.

We did have driver issues but managed to arrange another driver at short notice, albeit at a higher rate. We had agreed to a 15,000 PKR rate with a driver who would take us to Astore via Deosai Plains but seeing as we would now be camping at Deosai and that we asked if he could speak English, he gave himself a pay rise and now wanted 25,000 PKR.

I have to say that alhamdulillah (fortunately), we have travelled a lot, and besides the taxi drivers of Islamabad, this was the only time we felt someone was taking advantage. Indonesia and Peru, we thought like that constantly. We politely declined to pay the raise and managed to find another driver despite planning to leave and headed to Deosai Plains in less than twelve hours at the cost of 22,000 PKR. Being ripped off in Pakistan is rare; that was our experience anyway. This seemed like a one-off; it was a one-off.

As we rode into the ever-expanding hills of Deosai, it reminded us of the hills of Derbyshire, which we had visited just two weeks before. It was even raining; indeed, we were in England! The car rumbled on, and Natalie yelled stop, she had spotted a creature we don’t often see in England, but in Pakistan and areas within Asia, they are widespread. Natalie had spotted a yak!

Seeing this massive brute of nature quietly chewing on some rain-soaked grass was a moment of awe, especially as Natalie braved it by approaching the Yak to an extent where she was only a few metres away. The Yak was unfazed. As we quietly looked on with the ever-rolling hills of Derbyshire, sorry, Pakistan in the backdrop, that was a moment we’ll remember for a long time.

It’s strange. Here I am talking about nothing much, but that memory is forever etched in the brain, especially seeing it repeatedly while we were doing the editing phase. We were there for a long time.

We went back into the car and missed the high viewing platform, a Deosai Plains highlight; the drivers’ excuse was that it was rainy and we wouldn’t see anything. At this point, you could tell we were from England as we held our tongue and tried to justify this decision. I keep telling you that travelling through Pakistan is like a constant shift between awe and frustration. A continuous see-saw that you enjoy for the ride.

We approached the camp; it was time for part two of our adventure.

Toodles

USEFUL TIPS FOR BACKPACKING PAKISTAN:

How to Visit Deosai Plains in Pakistan

As mentioned in the main article, your route to the Deosai plains will always depend on which way you travel through Pakistan. For example, suppose you are coming from Hunza. In that case, you will be travelling southward, and I recommend you visit Fairy Meadows > Astore (to experience the wonder of Rama. Trust me. Do not miss Rama!) > Deosai Plains before venturing into Skardu. We made this journey in reverse and left Skardu behind.

Our plan was simple: drive to Astore, where we could visit the much anticipated Rama Lake and Rama Meadows through Deosai Plains and spend one-night camping. Before heading to Fairy Meadows to start our ascent into Hunza, the true north of Pakistan. The only way to do this is to hire a driver unless you have your own transport. As is the norm in this area of Pakistan, a typical car will not do! Do not take that lightly and think you can get away driving a regular vehicle; a 4X4 will be needed. It is a necessity.

The drive to Deosai Plains will cost somewhere between 18-25k depending upon your negotiation skills and where you ultimately want to end up. We were quoted 18,000 PKR to drive into Deosia Plains and then return back to Skardu. We chose against this as it would be a long day and we never enjoy going back on ourselves. It would cost 22,000 PKR if we were to be dropped off at Astore after spending one night in the Deosai Plains. Finally, at a cost of 25,000 PKR, your driver will take you all the way to Gilgit however, for the last two options, spending a night at Deosai Plains is the most realistic option due to the drive times being immense. Plus, when you arrive at the campsite within Deosia Plains, you are essentially only at the entrance, when you near the exit, you get to witness the beauty of Sheosar Lake and truly appreciate the Deosai Plains landscape.

On our visit, the whole place was covered in thick fog, but it added a mystical element to it, which we enjoyed. After all: You’re always where you’re meant to be